Route heading North to Vancouver

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Route heading South to Antigua

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Day 35, 36, 37 - US & Home (return)

NOTE: these posts relate to my return trip as I had to turn back from Guatemala

After 17,000 km and 37 days - driving through all kinds of terrain under all imaginable conditions – I am home!

The smile and ‘welcome home sir’ at the border felt GREAT! Particularly after the number of searches I have gone through – some at gunpoint – the Mexicans were at least nice about it – they would always shake my hand before and after a search – while pointing automatic weapons at me!

Did you know that repos cannot repossess a vehicle on the reservation (actually no law other then the reservation police applies on the reservation) so they hang around the nearest Wal-mart waiting for the vehicle to show up!

I wanted a long road trip and I certainly got one! It had some glorious moments and a few nasty ones but all in all – what a ride!!!

The most important piece of equipment (other than the obvious) was my trusted 10 dollar electric kettle! It provided me with coffee for my early morning starts and, in a pinch, hot water for an instant meal

Pity, I could not make it to SA but maybe the gods saved that for another day J

Hasta la Vista!

Day 32, 33 & 34 - US (return)

NOTE: these posts relate to my return trip as I had to turn back from Guatemala

Day 32 was Pathfinder maintenance day - took hell of a beating in Mexico and needed repairs.

Day 33 and 34 have been the best days do far - driving North through New Mexico, Colorado and Utah has been awesome - with NM and Colorado being the best! Actually its a kind of natural beauty that no photograph can ever do justice too.

Did you know that in Utah - restaurants will not serve you beer or wine!? The ones that do have a limit of 3??

Good thing I am just passing through - a man could die of thirst in this dry desert!

Day 30 & 31 - Mexico (return)

And yes the night was very peaceful!

....and I am back in the desert again 

Now on the most dangerous area in the Americas (Ciudad Juarez)! Here I was all geared up – checking for IEDs (kidding) but hey at the very least I expected a heavy military presence – but, not a sausage in sight!!??

Either the news is old/propaganda or the Mexican security forces did not get the memo?

I think that they have been fighting a losing war against the cartels – so they made a deal – we will go away and spend time in fancy hotels (and harass the wayward Canadian tourist) and you stop killing each other and get on with the traditional family business of cocaine transportation! Live and let live so to speak!

Amazing, did not see a single soldier or cop (everywhere else in Mexico they are all over the place) – on the other hand, to give them the benefit of the doubt – maybe they just had great camouflage!

Finally, cross back into US at El Paso, Texas

Day 27, 28 & 29 – Mexico (return)

OK, here is some Mexico trivia –

• Mexico introduced chocolate, corn and chillies to the world!
• One of the largest windmill farms is located in Mexico - thousands of windmills in 140 square miles! BTW each blade is the length of a airliner wingspan (lots of smog and wrong time of the day for photography - but to give an image) 

• The most popular car brand is VW and the most popular car VW Jetta
• Mile for mile - Mexico has the most expensive highway system in the world – I should know!

Now a story on my number plates – in Mexico most people think the vehicle and I are from Colombia – guess they just ignore the British side of things J

Have passed one vehicle with BC plates in the mountains – resulted in a lot of arm waving and honking – god I love families in mini-vans as long as they are in Mexico!

After 3 days of driving and at time retracing my route I get to a small chaotic town and not a hotel worth the name in sight – my rule in this situation is to just keep driving in the direction I  am going and sooner or later I find something and this time guess what I found!

Now, these places are very hush hush – one drives in and faces a metal barrier and a one way glass window - all transactions are similar to a drive by ATM – communication is via intercom. Perfect for a clandestine encounter and then I show up – “Hello! Is anyone in there!!??” They must have taken me for quite the wanker! J

After some confused Spanish behind the one way glass – the manager walks out and we had the good old chat – he showed me how things worked and well I did not have the love but did have an auto so I was welcome!

It’s amazing how clean this place is – better then the so called motels in the US or in Canada

It’s like a drive in garage - you drive in and close the shutter behind you and then open a door and walk into a very clean suite with very confusing horizontal ‘S’ shaped seating with guidelines and a menu that is best left to the imagination – other than that it could be just another home in the suburbs! J

Day 26 – Guatemala

The stay at the hacienda was absolutely marvelous! Two things I am certain off this trip – New Mexico and if ever own a house it will be designed as a hacienda – needless to say it needs to be in a temperate climate!

....here are some more pics of Antigua

....one of the volcanoes surrounding the town

....Pathfinder certainly looks comfortable in its private hacienda parking!

Have some news (will not classify it as good or bad) - it is what it is

Based on various factors of which the two most important ones are the increased shipping costs from Panama to Colombia and the wait time before I can actually get my vehicle in a container and on board a ship - the trip beyond Panama is no longer financially viable – and as I have already been to countries south of Guatemala to Panama, I have decided to turn back from Antigua as it’s a wonderful place and therefore fitting for a u-turn

So, heading home but it’s a long way back! And as I am taking a completely different route back - will keep the blog and snaps going!

Day 25 – Guatemala

Second time I have been to Guatemala and it’s the second time I have been ripped off at the border – cheat me once shame on you, cheat me twice shame on me – guess that makes me an absolute idiot!

The roads can best be described as a long rumble strip – full of potholes (more like craters) – some of them looked like meteorite strikes! I actually saw a cow walk into one and disappear! J

OK now on to the auto motels – Mexico had a few but in Guatemala there is one every 50 or so km!? There is obviously a lot of love going around!  The basic ones just have a concrete one car garage with a rubber curtain – the more luxury ones have a room that opens once you feed the meter in the drive in garage and has a TV, ac, bed etc. One was called ‘Happy Past-times’ – not in a frigging garage mate!

Getting closer to Antigua – the roads improved miraculously – the town is obviously the show case of Guatemala (sadly the mannequins were facing the right way)

....approaching Antigua - that's a railway in the distance

....just outside Antigua - still grow maize - staple diet of the Mayan

It is a special place and expensive (same prices as Vancouver) 

Have never lived in a old hacienda - damn good reason to check in! This is the outside.... 

....inside 

....my rooms the one on the right

DAY 23 & 24 - Mexico

First thing Monday morning I head for the Banjercito office ( I had deposited a few hundred bucks for the car and in return got a permit to drive around Mexico) well here I am at the border all set to hand in my permit  - just so they are never accused of efficiency – they moved the frigging office!? I say your website and the place I got the permit says I have to go to Tapachula!!?? Yeah, well – shit happens! They of course were kind enough to draw me a map!

As a result I had to drive 150 km back the way I came from – but it’s done!

I guess Santa Maria tests us all – but some it tests more than others.

Have permission to leave Mexico so will try and do so tomorrow morning

In the next post I shall touch upon the much talked about Central and South American auto/love motels!

I bet that post gets the largest number of hits!!

Day 20,21 & 22 - Mexico

Greeting from Tapachula on the Mexcio/Guatemala border

Lots and lots of driving and being stuck in traffic jams – one lasted over 4 hours!

Today started with another jam out of San Cristobal but did make a good story – apparently the locals are not happy with the government and the toll roads (surprise!?) as the locals cannot afford the toll roads and do not even indirectly benefit. So they decided to set up their own toll by blocking the road with a rope and anyone who wanted to cross had to pay 20 peso (very reasonable!) and that was my toll payment for the day! Cheapest day of driving so far in Mexico!

My first full day of no toll roads and the road was pretty good – better than some of the so called toll roads – but narrow and very challenging to drive as it meandered through the mountains, through small villages – the road was barely wide enough for the Pathfinder!

Had all the challenges of hard mountain driving – rock slides, mud slides, thousands of meters straight drop off the edge of the road ( no guard rail) At one point I had to use 4X4 while driving through a mud slide – the mud was wet and still sliding! J

Have not done this kind of driving since my army days

But, the real danger on the drive are the never ending speed breakers (more like car breakers) called ‘Topes’ they are rarely marked and if you hit one at any speed other then dead slow – well let’s say the experience will make a believer out of you!

Moreover, I got to see a side of Mexico most tourists rarely see – and I am glad I did!

In one of my walks through town looking for a bank/ATM I came across a store selling jeans for women – now in Mexico or any other country south the posterior of the female mannequin is more pronounced compared to what we see! Now in most window dressings the mannequins face out – this store had them facing in! Isn't hindsight a beautiful thing! J

I have reached my final destination in Mexico – will spend the weekend here (Tapachula) doing some paper work, recharging - as very tired from all the driving and of course planning my route into Guatemala!

Day 19 - Mexico

The drive to Tula was great, through the mountains – from sweltering to low of 9 – and for the very first time no tolls bristling with armed men! A very good sign!

The heart of every village, town, city is a church - the epicenter for a hotline to Jesus and checking out the local talent!

When I get to the turn off for Tula - there is nothing!? No buildings and no road – just a dirt track. Well, I had no choice so I continue and find a small chaotic town best forgotten. Although, had dinner in a nice restaurant with good atmosphere and friendly people 

... but (have I mentioned it before?) true ethnic Mexican food sucks – the westernized version is actually a big improvement – feel free to scream protects! J

Tomorrow I head for Acayucan – very close to the Atlantic coast. Should be interesting!

Day 17 &18 - Mexico

Day 17 was unremarkable – I will just say one thing – I will NEVER complain about Canada and US traffic again – ever!

Day 18 was better! The landscape has been getting greener since Los Mochis and warmer (high of 34)

A note on the toll roads of Mexico -

Any highway of note is a toll highway in Mexico and the amount you pay depends on day to day and the direction one is heading in - there have been days I have paid 20 odd dollars and today I paid more than 60 dollars – they cleaned me out of pesos! The only currency they accept is pesos – apparently due to money laundering by drug traffickers

Needless to say they are very expensive – so the only traffic is tourists, long haul truckers, buses and the well off locals. The reason they are safe is because largely – there is one way in and one way out – no meandering or side roads to explore! And the entrance/exit are heavily guarded by the federal police and at places the army

BTW - All pumps at gas stations in Mexico are staffed – they pump the gas, clean your windshield and also have a side business going – my wiper blades had given up the ghost (fighting all the wanker bugs) he noticed the damaged blades and before I could say anything pulls out a new pair from his locker (next to the pump) and replaces the broken ones for 200 peso (about 15 dollars) which I am sure is 4 times the actual price! 

But, I needed wiper blades and he needed the money – good trade!

Staying in a boutique hotel tonight – small but has a certain doll house charm – where the heck is the doll!? ;)

Thanks for the comments as and when I get them – not frequent enough though! It’s lonely on the road – I caught myself fantasizing about the GPS woman the other day! 

Day 16 - Mexico

Greetings from Los Mochis, Mexico!

A note on the Federal Policia – the vehicles in the hotel parking lot I had posted a pic of – well apparently they were not there to protect but were there because that’s where they stay!?

Apparently, they move around a lot fighting the cartels and stay in 3 and 4 star hotels to rest up!? Go figure! ;-)

In Los Mochis today and will be heading for the coast and Mazatlan tomorrow 

The church is in the center of town and on Sunday they have a rolling service all day with a fiesta in the adjacent park 

Day 15 - Mexico

This time I got across the border and kept going! The drive was uneventful other than a very strong police presence all along the highway – had to go through a number of check points. The roads so far are ok with the toll highways being excellent. Hermosillo is the capital of Sonora - have seen nothing remarkable so far other than my hotel room!

....They have these phone booths all along the roads - with a SOS! A little strange as its largely a nautical term

....Talking of police presence - this is in the hotel parking lot - 4 federal police pickups (did a recount and there are 6 pickups and 1 armored car) with heavy machine gun mounts - you can see my civilian Pathfinder in the foreground - sure it feels a lot safer parked there!

....The globe in the distance is the full moon - maybe it’s a full moon thing but for the very first time on this trip I have seen not one but  five 'worth the attention' women! Apparently, the most beautiful women in Mexico come from Sonara - I concur!! :)

..

Day 13 & 14 – US & Mexico

Day 14 started early and I was in Mexico all of 20 minutes! J

Here is how it played out – hit the border at  6 am and had a nice friendly chat with US Border guys wanted to know where I was going etc. Now they were real friendly why is it that the same guys at the Canadian US border are unpleasant to say the least!?

Then came the Mexico side of things – the difference in a distance of 10 meters is amazing it’s like stepping through a time warp – from clean and organized to squalid and disorganized. The guys were friendly and I got to test my Spanish – no one spoke any English. After a lot of arm waving I got the message that I would have to make a 400 dollars security deposit for the vehicle which I would get back when I leave Mexico – I was aware of the deposit – the issue was that my credit or debit card did not work and the only option was to give them 475 (including processing fees) in US dollars cash! No other currency accepted. That would have cleaned out my dollar buffer in case of a emergency so I took a u –turn and headed back to Douglas, Arizona to stock up on some cash!

....while driving around New Mexico I passed through a town called ‘Truth or Consequences’ – look it up!

Day 11 & 12 - US

Day 11 and morning of day 12 was taken up with maintenance tasks – get the car serviced, washed, did my laundry etc

Today I hit the Mexican consulate early in the morning – and was told that as I need a transit permit I can only get it at the border – so headed for Douglas, Arizona - the drive was long but uneventful. Need to name this drive as ‘Bug Alley’ never seen so many bugs – locusts crawling on the tarmac and flies all over everything. My windshield was plastered – in a few miles it resembled the killing fields of Cambodia!

I forgot to mention in the California post – I saw a pink police car - bright pink with dark pink highlights – go figure!

Here is a pic of a solar farm – notice the flies on the camera lenses!

Douglas is a typical frontier town - very small with lots and lots of space around it. Hopefully i can find what i need in supplies here!? Interesting heritage hotel i had a meal in...

Day 9 & 10 US

Day 8 was eventful – did a lot of exploring – talking of exploration did you know that in the US natives are still called ‘Indians’!? Have sign posting all over the place – can only happen here!

OK its official - New Mexico is now my favorite state - the landscape is absolutely stunning!

....the plan was to camp in the evening - test out all my camping gear - well it certainly got tested! I found this great camp ground near a lake close to Taos, NM - and it was completely empty!? That should have been warning enough! Well i set up my tent ...

....and checked out the view!

 ....enjoyed a spectacular sunset!

....very soon thereafter a storm hit us and i found out the hard way why the camp ground was empty! lets just say it was damage control for the rest of the night - all in all my camping gear did get tested! ;-) 

In Santa Fe on day 10 will be heading down to Mexico soon